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This
is a pattern for a shoe of the kind found in Jorvik, England. The large
piece in the middle of the diagram is for a one-piece upper, most often
made from a pliable leather while the sole (on the left in the diagram)
is made from extra thick leather. The warriors in the society often have
studded soles on their shoes and boots to increase safety on the battlefield although this is not authentic. Seams are sew together with waxed
linen thread, usually with a saddle stitch. Other stitches can be used,
but saddle stitch is done using two threads passing both ways through
the same hole which strengthens the seam. The upper part is curved round
so that A meets B and sewn to a soft piece cut to the
sole pattern. The resulting shape is then turned inside out and the
thick sole attached to it. The sole (and possibly the upper too) is
pre-holed to allow greater ease when sewing - and making a groove close to the edge of the sole where
the stitches will go protects the thread from wearing through too soon.
The fastening shown here is made by rolling a strip of leather to
produce the toggle which fastens through a leather loop. The toggle
could also be made from bone or wood. The shoe shown is just one of
several designs from the period, including one or two designs for boots. |