The Odyssey of a Seahawk:
From Hilton Head, South Carolina, to Zilina, Slovakia,

with the Fulbright Teacher Exchange Program



in front of the flat

5 Jan - 29 Jan

Krásna Zima!!!

(that's "beautiful winter" for you English speakers!)

5 January 2000
Needless to say, spent the day reading mail, catching up on news, doing laundry, letting "the girls" (Sona, Dana, and Barbora) know I am back.

6 January 2000
Quiet day alone (as if I need it!!). Prepping lessons for when school starts. Writing, reading.


the cottage bathed in snow

7 January 2000
Went to the cottage with Dana, Sona, and their families. Went cross-country (or should I say uphill!!!) skiing today. It was absolutely the most exhilarating experience of my life! The walk to the cottage was one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. It was absolutely silent--everything was muffled by the snow. Snow covered everything and there was such a feeling of peace. After taking only a few (!) minutes to put on the skis and learn how to use the poles properly (Valent, Dana, and Sona are excellent teachers), I was on my way. OK, after falling a couple of (thousand) times, I was on my way. It was absolutely thrilling! Gliding through the snow, feeling as if you are walking on air. We skied up, that's right, UP the very same hill that I had my Sound of Music moment on last fall. This time it was more beautiful than I ever could have imagined. This only solidifies my decision to live somewhere where there is snow. After skiing, Valent gave me a beer, ice cold--the nectar of the gods, by far the best beverage I have ever had! Sona made a delicious cabbage soup, and then we went home. I know I will sleep the sleep of the dead tonight. This is definitely going into the books as one of the best days I have ever had.

8 January 2000
Recovered from my ski adventure. Tried to make Sona's cabbage soup, but it did not turn out as well as hers. Took a long walk. Read.

9 January 2000
I cannot stop looking at the snow. I am completely obsessed with it. It is beautiful. The kids all have their snowsuits on, mittens, hats, and little wooden sleds. It is fantastic. It also gets dark at around 4 p.m., which I love. Trying to get through the D.H. Lawrence canon this year!!! I don't even really like him, but the way he obsesses over things hits home at times (!!). First day of school tomorrow.


kids on their sleds

10 January 2000
4.C. Went to the computer lab today--it took us a while to get the key. So the we log on, and discover that Internet is not working. So I tell them we are going back to class. Of course., now there are only thirty minutes left in class. After much pleading, I decided, what the heck, so we stayed in the computer lab and they taught me how to play Doom on the network. Never in the states would this have happened!! Of course, we would not have Doom on our computers, but they are pretty loose with computer restrictions here, but the kids are very responsible, too, so not many restrictions are needed. In conversation, we watched the Ten Most Important People of the Century video. There are some great activity/presentation suggestions with the video. Next week they will have to come to school with their presentations . . . we'll see!

11 January 2000
I am going to start a music unit--with vocabulary and comprehension activities and eventually this will turn into a poetry unit. Today in 3.D I printed out the lyrics to some Beatles songs, and we just listened. In conversation today, we watched the Important People video. It is a really good video, and the kids seemed to enjoy it. Had my Slovak lesson today. It is going pretty well. Vlado repeats things a lot, but I guess that is good, as I think I am learning, at least understanding a little more.

12 January 2000
In 4.D today we listened to some songs from the Hair soundtrack (which I just happened to have brought with me), U2, and the Beatles. Activities next week, this week we just listened. I did the same thing with both sections of 3.C. We watched the Important People video in conversation. I feel like I am at the halfway mark of this year (which I kind of am), and it gives me a slightly melancholy feeling. I feel as though I have just gotten used to the school, am getting to know the kids well, and now I am going down the hill. Or, I could look at it like a normal person and say that the best is still to come!!


two of the Joeys!!!

13 January 2000
In the other half of 4.D, we again listened to music. In 3.D, as it is a long class, I used one of the activities I am going to use next week with everyone else. First we listened to some music. Then, I had the lyrics to "The Sound of Silence" and "Eleanor Rigby." For each song, I cut each line, mixed them up, and gave each student a couple of lines. Then, I played each song and while the songs were playing, the students had to listen and unscramble the lines and put the lyrics in order (Internet lesson plans are a wonderful thing). There was relative chaos in the room when this was going on--it was great!! We had to listen to each song a number of times, but they were successful. One of the best lessons we have had yet. We did the same thing in both sections of 2.D. Dana walked in to tell me something when the last class was doing the lyric scramble, and I saw her eyes get a little wide (remember, I said chaos--kids were running all around the room trying to get their lyrics straight), and then she laughed. It was truly a great day. Only two kids absent for conversation class. We watched the Important People video. These kids are real thinkers--probably the most intense class I have. They are really bright (when they are here!), and I thoroughly enjoy talking with them. There are many Jozefs in this class, so to distinguish among them, I have taken to calling one student "Joey Z." So now the other Jozefs call each other by their respective names: Joey B and Joey D. It is hilarious!!!
14 January 2000
Did lyric scramble with 3.A today. A game. What a surprise! We had a great time, though. It really is a challenge for them (for all the students, not just 3.A)--to listen to the song and put the lyrics in order; it is kind of tough, especially when there is some unknown vocabulary (which we of course proceeded to go over). In conversation we watched the Important People video. Rather uneventful. I cannot believe that this week is already over.

15 January 2000
It is 2:15 a.m. and I can't sleep. It is snowing outside, thick and swirling. I cannot stop watching it. Spent the rest of the day doing laundry, making soup, and reading. It snowed the entire day. Unbelievable beautiful. I cannot get enough of it.

16 January 2000
When I woke up at 9:00 this morning, it was still snowing, a beautiful, silent blanket of snow covered everything. Note to self: move up north!!!

17 January 2000
No computer lab this week for 4.C. Today we did "Eleanor Rigby" and "The Sound of Silence" lyric scramble. They did really well. The kids of Monday conversation were actually prepared. Their presentations were really quite good. Students had to present a view point on an issue, such as nuclear power, the meaning of art, non-violent resistance v. armed resistance, etc. Their ideas were well thought out and earnest.

18 January 2000
In 3.D we did the lyrics scramble. It was really hard for them, but they did a great job. The students of conversation did their presentations today. Went very well. Well, it went well with the kids who actually talked!!

19 January 2000
Did lyric scramble today with 4.D. We had a blast. It has been snowing for two days. It is kind of cute how all the kids make it a point to mention the snow to me! I know I lived in snow in DC, but that was mere millimeters, maybe twice a year. This is an enormous amount of snow! The fourth year students have these books, like autograph books, and they put their pictures, addresses, and letters or notes on the pages of each other's books, like what our kids do with their yearbooks. I was going to do a lyric scramble with the first section of 3.C, but they wanted to know some vocabulary from some songs by the RedHotChiliPeppers, and since they happen to be my new favorite band, I willingly obliged. So we reviewed vocabulary from "Otherside" and "Scar Tissue" (e.g., they had no idea what scar tissue is). We then translated "The Happy Song" from Slovak. It is anything BUT happy. We did the same thing in the other section of 3.C. My darlings of Wednesday conversation presented their projects. Grades are due tomorrow, so I spent the evening preparing grade sheets for the teachers. A near perfect day. Well, except for slipping down the incline towards Hlinska Square and falling on my bum! It rather (saying rather the way Michelle says it!) hurt, although I was more embarrassed than hurt.


snowfight with 2.D

20 January 2000
Still snowing. SnowSTORM, actually. Great!!!!! In 4.D we played "Famous Person Guess Who." I have a list of about 60 famous people throughout history, from all areas, and students, divided into pairs, have to describe to their partner this person, without saying his or her name. At the end of the class, the team with the most guesses wins. They have ninety seconds to do this. We were able to play three rounds. It is actually a really hard game, as they have to describe this person, obviously, in English.

In 3.D, we played vocabulary grab. In vocabulary grab, we review the vocabulary from some songs, I tape the words onto the board, and the students have to listen to the song and they have to grab the word from the board when they hear it. The class is divided up into teams, and they have to grab the words relay style. The team with the most words wins. The catch is, you have to listen to the song carefully and grab the word right when you hear it, not after. They did really well, and the teams got most of the words. We did the same in both sections of 2.D. In the last section of 2.D, we had a spontaneous snowball fight! It was utterly fantastic.

Finished the 20th century topic--thank goodness, although this one was rather interesting, at least for me. I am not sure what the students would say.

Read about all the films at Sundance this year. I cannot believe I am missing all of these movies. I am going to be plopped in front of the VCR for the next year catching up on everything I have missed. Talked to Mary Beth and Wito tonight. We usually talk on Thursdays, and it is great. It feels like I am not an ocean away from them and that we are at Wild Wings laughing about nothing!

21 January 2000
Played vocabulary grab with 3.A. The vocabulary was pretty difficult, but they were troopers. I tried to use songs in which you could decipher the lyrics--Crash Crash Test Dummies, Sinead O'Connor, Foo Fighters, The Beatles, and, because they (and I) love them, the RedHotChiliPeppers. The students did their presentations in conversation.

After school, I went to the gym with Barbora. It is so odd being the one that people stare at instead of being the one who is staring. We speak English, obviously, and we are always getting stared at. On the way home from the gym, I saw a HUGE crowd at the church, so of course, went to see what it was. I hear, "Julie!" so I turn around and Barbora, Lucas, and Jan are there (Sona's daughter and Dana's sons). I asked them what was going on, and they said, "Church." So I went to Mass with them. Apparently, this happens EVERY Friday. It is a Mass specifically for young people. It was standing room only, and really, really nice. I am amazed that this many teenagers go to Mass on a Friday night.

22 January 2000
I was going to take the bus to the Billa (supermarket) today, as they are the only store that sells ground beef. I missed the bus and was late for Barbora's house. So I decided to do something foolish and take the car. So I started to dig the car out of the snow. I had not even been pathetically digging for three minutes when Janko, Dana's son, was right there helping me. I asked him if his mother made him come over and help (Dana can see my flat from hers), and he looked offended and said, "No, I wanted to!!" I love this kid!!! Made lunch at Barb's today. Before he left, Josh gave me a box o' Taco Bell! So I brought that over to Barb's (she lived in Canada and had experienced Taco Hell, but her husband never has) and we had tacos for lunch. It was a lot of fun. Then went to Mass with Sona and Dana. They go to a church up the road every Saturday night with their parents and then stop by their parents' house for cake and tea. So I joined them this week. Their parents are so nice--her father is an English teacher at the university in Ruzomberok and their mother is one of the sweetest people I have ever met. Their father showed me pictures of their trips to Morocco, Spain, and Yugoslavia--incredibly beautiful.


Dana and Valent on the way to the cottage


the path to the cottage--we are the first to walk it since the snowfall


me and Valent seconds later

23 January 2000
Has snowed the entire week and is still snowing. Went skiing again today at the cottage. I LOVE IT HERE. It was absolutely the most beautiful thing I have ever seen, there was more snow than last time. Pristine, magnificent, amazing. I found the Jags game on Internet tonight. Talked to MB for a while while I listened to the game. I cannot believe they lost to Tennessee!!!!

24 January 2000
Grades were due at the end of the day today. Went to school and found out that grades were not due at the 4-5 end of the day that we have in the States, but at the Slovak end of the day: 3 pm!!! So, I had to rush and put my grades in the books. I do not think I can even begin to describe this system in order for a) you to understand it and b) give this marvelous monument to bureaucracy its just praises! I will NEVER complain about paperwork at HHHS again after observing the class teachers here!!! Pay attention: there will be a quiz later.


I am not proud!! Valent snapped this just as I fell
(he is an evil, evil man!)

A class teacher is an elaborate homeroom teacher. The students of each class (remember there are 20 classes: 1.A through 1.E, 2.A through 2.E, 3.A through 3.E, and 4.A through 4.E) have this teacher for all four years of their gymnazium career. This class teacher is responsible for keeping DETAILED records on each student--basically the teacher is the registrar, attendance office, and guidance office rolled into one human. Every time a student (or teacher for that matter) is absent, they must have a stamp from the doctor (or dentist) in the student book each student carries on their person, to prove that they were absent for a valid reason. The class teacher must keep a record of the absences for each student (there are about 35 students in each class) in his or her class book. The class book travels from class to class with the students (with one student being responsible for its whereabouts and that it gets back to the class teacher at the end of the day). Along with the absences, the class teacher must make sure that it is signed daily by EVERYONE WHO TEACHES THAT CLASS. So every time I see that class, I have to put my signature next to the absences in my class, AND in another section of the book, I have to write what I did that day in class and my signature. If there are any discipline problems (very, very rare) or special cases, notes have to be made in the Katalog, or what the individual student section of the class book is called. THEN, when the marking period comes to a close (they only do grades twice a year, January and June), every teacher who teaches that class has to put the students' marks in the appropriate place in the class book. As I have five conversation classes with a mixture of classes, I had to write in three out of five third year books and all five of the fourth year books. My class is not graded, rather it is pass or fail (and the only way someone fails is if they miss 25% or more of the class sessions), so I had to write absolvoval for the boys if they are passing (and neabsolvoval if they are not) and absolvolva (or neabsolvolva) for the girls. If students receive neabs, they have to take oral exams with two English teachers and their class teacher until they pass!!! Also, these kids are so intrinsically motivated, they HATE to see anything negative on their papers, so this keeps their motivation to do well high.

So, after all of the grades have been entered by the individual teachers, the class teacher has to double check that everything was entered correctly, THEN the class teacher has to transfer all of this information (attendance, excused and unexcused absences, and grades) onto a form that goes to the administrators, who then type the grades into the computer. Next Monday (Jan. 31), the students will receive their printed out grades and then there is a concert (rock concert this time!) they will attend to celebrate the end of the semester. Then the whole process starts all over again! I was told that at the end of the year, the grades are not printed out on the computer, but the teachers have to HAND WRITE them onto an official transcript for university. Of course, not every teacher is a class teacher (20 class teachers, a faculty of 50), and non-class teachers do not have anywhere NEAR the amount of record keeping we have at HHHS, but when it comes to doing grades and we just sit in front of the computer and bop those babies in, it seems much easier. So that is how I spent my morning and some of my afternoon between classes.

Today I had 4.C. I have confirmed with Judy Munchmeyer that we are going to do e-mail exchanges with this class and her English III PIB class. Allison is already writing to one of my students (YAY!!). The only problem lately is that Internet is down, the school is changing providers, and apparently it is taking a couple of months to do so!! So, the letter writing project is on hold for the moment. We played "Famous Person Guess Who." I think it really does help their conversation/pronunciation skills. They know the people and can describe them in Slovak, which is strictly verboten, but they have a hard time in English. It was a lot of fun, though.

In conversation, I had to leave the students in the classroom alone for half the class while I finished putting the grades in the class book. The students knew where I was and I left them with an assignment. Of course, the assignment was not finished when I returned (I did not expect it to be!), and some kids were playing in the snow when I walked out the door toward the back of the building (who can blame them? the weather was cold (-13 degrees Centigrade [8 degrees Fahrenheit]), crisp, and sunny today--absolutely beautiful). But they went back inside with absolutely no prodding, and we of course did not finish the lesson, but instead they asked me about some slang words and phrases a student got off of the Internet. I cannot repeat what these slang words and phrases were, but suffice it to say I would make a pretty good Slovak sailor now!!!!!

Had Slovak lesson with Vlado today, as he has to put his grades in his class books tomorrow. I get so frustrated with myself when I don't understand something, or want to go faster during the lesson (no, me impatient??). But everyone has commented on how my Slovak is improving, so I guess it must be doing some good. I hate speaking, though. I feel like an idiot. I can understand a lot, but feel all tongue tied and flustered when I am asked to speak. I can imagine how my students must feel around me. I would probably feel more at ease speaking Slovak with a non-native speaker, but I feel like a moron when I speak here, making rudimentary sentences in the wrong tense and the wrong case and using the wrong prepositions!!! But at least I am trying . . . It really is such a cool, intricate, and lyrical sounding language.

25 January 2000
Walked out the door this morning and immediately had ice cubes up my nose. Not to be gross, but the gunk in my nose literally froze! It was so cold that the first breath I took this morning actually hurt my throat, like a little knife sliding down my trachea. After the shock of the first breath, the air felt crisp and fresh. A beautiful day--sunny and cold.

3.D Tuesday. The girls! (This is a class that concentrates in languages and this class happens to be all girls.) This is also the friendliest, nicest, most attentive, helpful, enthusiastic, did I say nicest? group of kids. Actually, this applies to every class at any given time. I have been asked to co-lead, with Barbora, a group of students for the Slovak Association of Teachers of English's annual "Drama Days" competition (10-15 minute one-acts) on 21 March. Not being one to turn down a) working with theatre, and b) a good dose of competition, I readily agreed. There was also a notice posted about a Model UN competition in Zilina from 3-7 July 2000. The competition will be conducted in English, and I would love the chance to experience it here, so I readily agreed to sponsor that too. NOW I feel like I am home!!! So, I recruited both the Drama Days and Model UN participants from both sections of 3.D. The fourth year students are almost finished with school (amazingly), and the third year language students are perfect for these projects. I think I was a wee bit more excited than they were at first, but by the end of class, everyone had signed up to do something, even if it was research for Model UN or costumes for the play. So the entire class was spent planning our time and signing up students. Martina was a great help, I read the letter first in English, and she then read it in Slovak.

And then the ever-challenging Tuesday conversation class. Today eight out of seventeen students showed up. Every boy was absent. I suspect a little visit to the pub. The girls, of course, had no idea where they were (cha!), so we went ahead with the lesson anyway. Finally finished 20th Century Changes!!! On to Shopping next week. We had a talk (I would not say interesting, but at least it was a conversation) about scientific discoveries and advances in the 20th century, and I should be over it by now, but these students are so AWARE of the world around them, political, environmental, scientific, social, economic--the whole spectrum.

Dana is going to the travel agent for me today. She is a goddess. She is checking into airfare to anywhere! We have a nine day holiday in a few weeks and I want to go somewhere . . . anywhere exotic. Actually, I am torn between staying here in Zilina and going someplace far away. Then I think, when am I ever going to have the chance to do this again? So I think going away is going to win. Thailand, Egypt, Greece, Kenya, Tunis, Morocco . . . the possibilities are endless. The only concern is airfare. I can't wait to see what she says tomorrow. If Dana decided that one of the mountains in the Big Fatras needed to be moved, she would find a way to do it! And she wouldn't do it in a pushy way--she would make the mountain WANT to move for her, she is that nice! Dana, Sona, and Barbora are amazing people; they have been so kind to me and so helpful, I only hope that one day I can be as kind and helpful to someone in the same way.

Frighteningly obsessed with the new Red Hot Chili Peppers CD. Listen to it all the time. Until the next musical obsession comes along.

26 January 2000
I learned a new phrase today. If someone has "long wires," it takes a long time for information to go through those wires to their brain! 4.D. Played "Famous Person Guess Who." Went very well. In the first section of 3.C, we also played. A clue for Famous Person Guess Who: "You read a lot of him." Answer was Freud! No other clue was needed! ! Totally helped each other on the answers, even though it is a competition. In the second half of 3.C, the students translated a Slovak pop song into English for me. WOW!! It was rather difficult for them (and it was rather difficult for me to see what they were talking about). I recognized many, many words, but to put them together to form some sort of meaning in the song was hard. This must be how the kids feel at times about English. Talk about an empathic experience!

In conversation today, we talked about, of all things, pubs! Going to the pub after school (the "school" pub is called Nosorozec, or "The Rhinoceros"). We were comparing how people spent their leisure time at the beginning of the century with how they spend it at the end of the century, and most of the class admitted to spending at least "some" of their leisure time at the pub. The drinking age here is 18, and many seniors are already 18, so it is not (in their case) a legal issue (although many 3rd year students [and I guess 2nd year, too] go to the pubs). I am just fascinated with how mature they are.

27 January 2000
Spent most of 4.D talking about school rules. They wanted to know what some of the rules were at my high school. Needless to say, we have many, many more rules than they have here. They were amazed at the dress code. There is no dress code here, and I find myself at least once a day about to say, "Young lady, put a sweater on," or "Young lady, put a sweater around your waist." No problems with the guys--I guess baggy pants have not caught on here yet! In 3.D I brought some plays that I got off of Internet for them to read--we don't have much time to prepare for the drama festival. So the kids decided on a play, They Stole Hemingway's Brain, by Ron Peer, and it was time for class to end. There were no 2.D classes, as they were on a ski trip. In conversation, we went over the handout/maturita questions for the 20th century. All in all a boring, good day.

Went to another concert tonight. My favorite conductor, Karol Kevicky, conducted, and during the first half, we heard selections from Handel, Tschaikovsky, Ysaye, Part, and Sevcik, and after intermission we heard Bach (my favorite). And the first piece was something in D minor (my favorite key) for piano and orchestra. Beautiful.

28 January 2000
Spent today getting a presentation ready for the Fulbright meeting in the Czech Republic. I am going to Bratislava on Sunday and need to have some short presentation prepared. I decided to do transparencies. So 3.A helped me pick out photos for each month that I have been here. They were asking lots of questions (in English) about the pictures, and it was a really good class. In conversation, we did the same thing. They helped me write the topics for the transparencies, we chose photos, and then after school, some of the girls helped me find a copy shop that could copy color transparencies.

I noticed something today. I don't know why I hadn't noticed it before, but it there it was. The oddest thing about doors here. Only one is ever open. No matter if it is the post office, the Tesco, the cinema, any given shop or office (including my school), one ONE door is ever open. Either one or one of a pair (like the Tesco--there are two double doors, but only one of the two are ever open). I have no idea why, and no one can seem to tell me why. Just thought I would mention it.

29 January 2000
Packed and got ready for the Fulbright conference in Czech. In a town called Trest. I have no idea where it is. I am just taking the train to Bratislava, and Fulbright will do the rest. Sara (a professor) and I are going to room together, which is great. Am only slightly nervous. Not a fan of conferences . . .

ROME

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FULBRIGHT CONFERENCE IN TREST